A Life Without Shampoo: Introduction

The decision to try to live without shampoo was the only one so far that I didn't find on the internet. It is also the decision that led to my current attempts to eliminate other commercial cosmetic products from my routine, which in turn inspired me to launch this blog. My muses in this effort were two male friends of mine who, I recently found out, are fully adapted to "no 'poo" lifestyles. (It's an unfortunate name, I know.) Their hair is soft, beautiful, healthy, and clean. You would never suspect that they haven't used shampoo in months.

While most people's initial reactions are of disgust and disbelief, the concept makes sense with a little thought. Using shampoo daily, as most Americans do, strips your hair of its natural oils (known less pleasantly as sebum) and, in an attempt to maintain a balance, your body compensates by producing tons. Your hair gets greasy, so you wash it again. Rinse, repeat. This vicious cycle is one that shampoo manufacturers have decided to take advantage of. Selling shampoo also means selling conditioner. Convincing consumers that they need to wash their hair daily to smell and look good means selling more of both products. This is another example of a product that doesn't seem like a financial drain but that you will spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on in a lifetime.

The truth is, you don't need shampoo. Even if you think you do, you definitely don't need to use it daily. Shampoo as we know it didn't exist until the 1930s. It is a glorified soap that has been formulated to smell flowery, lather like a detergent, and rinse easily out of hair. A recent story on NPR put it nicely into historical perspective. In 1900, it was normal for women to wash their hair once a month. Ten years later, the New York Times published a column saying that it was okay (meaning they could, not that they should) for women to wash their hair once every two weeks. But even today, most Italians and Spaniards only wash their hair two to three times a week. Dematologists and stylists agree that shampooing your hair more than that is not good for your scalp or your hair.

Add to this that shampoos come in plastic bottles and contain all sorts of chemicals that you don't want in your body or in the environment. Bank/Earth/Self. Get it?

I have had a fairly tumultuous relationship with my hair. It is fine but thick, voluminous, and wavy. It's gone from shoulder-length to layered short to military sheared to long, longer, longer still to bob to mohawk and back to layered short. It's been bleached and dyed almost every color of the rainbow. The haircut I have now—which I got by pointing to a picture of Rihanna in a crappy fashion magazine and telling the stylist that I want it to actually be short—is the first haircut that I've been really happy with. In terms of bathing and shampooing, I realize in retrospect that I didn't start showering and shampooing daily until my junior year in high school. And since then, not surprisingly, it seems like my hair gets greasier much faster than it ever used to.

Adapting to a "no 'poo" lifestyle is something that a lot of people give up before reaching their goal. Since the glands in your scalp are used to overproducing sebum that you would usually wash away with shampoo, most people experience what "no 'pooers" refer to as a "detox" period, which is just a loaded name for a transition period. During this time, which seems to vary from person to person, your hair is greasy and unattractive. People formulate different methods to keep it from smelling, from getting overly greasy or dry, and it seems as though there's a lot of trial-and-error before a miraculous and natural balance is established on your head. But people who've made it work promise that your hair will feel and look great if you can tolerate this gross period.

At the date of this posting, I have gone a week and two days without shampoo. I was on spring break when this all started. Since my last shampoo two Tuesdays ago, I have experimented a little with the standard washing and conditioning method that you'll find all over "no 'poo" discussion boards: washing with diluted baking soda and rinsing with diluted apple cider vinegar (both in a ratio of one tablespoon to a cup of water). My hair was incredibly greasy by the time I got my hands on some baking soda three days after shampooing. I got into the shower, wet my hair, massaged the diluted baking soda into my scalp, rinsed it off, and followed with diluted rice vinegar, which was the only kind we had around. My hair felt great when each ingredient was in it, but when I rinsed them out, my hair became a wet, sticky, mat. I was worried that the process hadn't done anything. But once my hair air-dried completely, I realized both the baking soda and vinegar had done their duty. My hair was softer and fluffier than it ever was after being shampooed.

But this was only the beginning. Reading extensively about issues people were having with "no 'poo," I braced myself for battle. I returned to school two days after my initial baking soda, vinegar wash, carrying a sandwich baggie of baking soda. I worked in the dining hall on Monday evening and decided to wash my hair after the shift. It was far less greasy than it had become in the days after my final shampoo. I didn't have any vinegar, so I just used the baking soda. As expected, the results weren't as spectacular as they were with vinegar on a really greasy head. Rather than looking soft and fluffy, it looked weighed down and felt like it was covered with a waxy residue. I did the same thing on Wednesday with similar results.

Today, I finally got a chance to bike down to the grocery and pick up a big box of baking soda, a gallon of apple cider vinegar—which has a ton of other uses that I'll get to in another post—and lots of other heavy stuff. I was sweaty and gross after my strenuous bike ride back, so I figured it'd be an opportunity to try again with the vinegar rinse. The waxy residue is less extreme but didn't really go away.

Since being a little disappointed by what I expected to be a vinegar miracle, I've been looking around on the "no 'poo" LiveJournal community and now think that transitioning from shampoo to baking soda and vinegar to water-only rather than just dropping everything at once seems to only prolongs the process. People who have successfully transitioned to water only do occasional salt or baking soda washes and conditioning rinses depending on the state of their hair but don't have regular washes or rinses. Rather than changing things chemically, water-only washers do a lot of brushing, combing, and massaging, to physically distribute oils from root to shaft. They also use changes in water temperature to help alleviate greasiness and waxiness, which is something I've been playing around with anyway. (Again, for another post.)

Now that I think about it, my two muses didn't bother with baking soda, vinegar, tea, and other things. They just tolerated the greasiness while it lasted and celebrated when it was gone. I'm going to do some investigation of specifics and will report back.

This is much more complicated and experimental than anything else I'm attempting. I will be posting updates for a while.